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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.